About TML Mailworkes
Materials and Weaves
Cleaning Instructions
Terminology
Custom Order Links:
Chainmail Armor
Maille Pouches/Dice Bags
Chainmail Jewelry
Maille Toys, Games, Misc
Materials and Weaves
Main Page
These are the materials we do the most work in. Other materials may be available on request.
Materials
Anodized Aluminum
The coating is fairly hard but can be scratched with steel. The rings are anodized after they are cut so the ends are anodized as well. They are a hard temper aluminum which is stronger than annealed steel or colored copper.
Bright Aluminum
Bright aluminum is clean, shiny and light. There is little to no noticeable black rub off from this material. They are hard tempered aluminum and a good alloy to give you good strength.
Etched Aluminum
This is a clean aluminum! The worst thing about aluminum is the black oxide that rubs off. This material is really clean and a pleasure to deal with. Long term wear tests show that this surface treatment wears off with abuse. The good news is it can be refreshed with quick corrosive dip. It is hard tempered aluminum and a good alloy to give good strength.
Brass
Brass is a shiny yellow metal that is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. It tarnishes and without care it will turn a dark yellow. Brass can be cleaned with any commercially available brass cleaner; like Brasso. This brass is 1/2 hard temper. This alloy is C260 cartridge brass.
Bronze
Bronze is a shiny, dark copper colored metal that is an alloy of copper and tin. It tarnishes and will turn the color of a bronze sculpture or old penny over time. It has slightly more corrosion resistance than brass. Bronze can be cleaned with any commercially available brass cleaner; like Brasso. This bronze is 1/2 hard temper and is strong enough for quality chainmail. The alloy is C510 which is a phosphor bronze.
Copper
Copper is a reddish colored metal than corrodes quite easily. It starts the color of a shiny new penny and can either darken or turn depending on how it is used. This copper is 1/2 hard temper and is much stronger than the copper used for electrical wiring.
Gold Fill- 14k 1/20
This gold filled wire is made from a 14K gold tube (5% by weight) filled with a hard temper brass. There is very little chance of wearing through the gold layer with normal use. The gold-fill comes in yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.
Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver is made from 92.5% silver. The material does tarnish with age. It is easily restored with a chemical silver polish. This is 1/2 hard temper.
Fine Silver:
Fine Silver is made from 99.9% silver. Fine silver has more corrosion resistance than sterling silver. It is slightly heavier than sterling (less than 1%). We use full hard temper for all of our fine silver rings.
Titanium
Titanium is a very light, strong and very corrosion resistant metal with a matte light gray finish (think mithril). The titanium we use is aerospace industry surplus wire made into rings. It may vary slightly from piece to piece because of this. Whenever possible we will do any piece in Titanium out of the same order of wire ensuring uniformity.
Anodized Titanium
This anodized titanium is electrically anodized. Anodized titanium colors are muted when compared to anodized aluminum colors. The color can be effected by oils from your skin - the color is restored by washing with soap to remove the oils.
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel doesn't rust, is strong and clean.This is alloy 304 for 12 through 22 ga and alloy 316 (surgical grade) for 9 and 24ga. Most of this stainless is drawn to a 125 KSI tensile strength.
Some of the more common weaves we use and what they are used for.Other weaves may be available on request, ask if you want one not listed here.
Weaves
Return to top of page

Go to weave information


Full Persian Weave
This weave is a variant of 6-in-1. It creates a long serpentine style chain, good for chokers, necklaces, bracelets, belts and some trim sections.
Byzantine weave
Byzantine is also known as birdcage. It is very nice in necklaces and bracelets and also as trim for some other pieces. Pieces made from 14 gauge or larger in byzantine make for good men's jewelry  as the weave and thickness combine to give a masculine effect to the piece. Finally this weave is popular for wallet chains.
Half-Persian 3-in-1 weave
Half persian 3-in-1(as the name suggests) looks like half of the full persian weave. It is useful for trim and jewelry pieces, in thicker links it makes good men's jewelry. The thinner gauges make the weave look much more delicate and make good women's jewelry. Large gauges are also popular as wallet chains.
Half Persian 4-in-1 weave
Half persian 4-in-1 is useful for trim and jewelry pieces, in thicker links it makes good men's jewelry. The thinner gauges make the weave look much more delicate and make good women's jewelry. Large gauges are also popular as wallet chains. The half persian 4-in-1 weave forms a much flatter end result than the half persian 3-in-1 and the weave itself is tighter as well.
European 4-in-1 weave
E 4-in-1 is the most basic of chainmail patterns and is good for making armor, pouches, other containers and chainmail halters/bras/bikinis.
European 6-in-1 weave
Somewhat more advanced than E 4-in-1 the E 6-in-1 can make the same items as 4-in-1 but with a tighter weave.
4-in-1 box weave
The 4-in-1 box weave is a 3-dimensional version of the European 4-in-1 weave. A connected strand of 4-in-1 basic units is taken, folded over and connected to itself to form a small squarish box. 4-in-1 box weave is used for bracelets, belts, necklaces, and trim work.
Japanese 4-in-1 weave
Japanese 4-in-1 is another 4-in-1 weave that was historically used for armor. It is frequently used in movies to represent chainmail armor because it films better. We use it for drape tops (exotic wear in the style of halter tops), pouches, jewelry and various other things.
Spiral weave
The spiral weave is only a single link wide but can be used to make a wonderful twisting spiral chain. In order for the spiral to stay in the chain though, it needs to be connected on both ends to something that will not allow it to twist. The most common use of this is in bracelets and necklaces that do not use clasps and simply slide on.
Spiral Wrap
Spiral wrap is a weave made of two strands of spiral weave that are wrapped about one another, when the ends are connected the chain retains its spiral.
Mobius chain
A mobius chain is made of a series of small mobius balls, which are sets of links interlocked with each other. The mobius balls are either connected with more mobius balls or single links between the balls.
Nickel Silver
Nickel Silver is an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc. It is also known as German silver, but is not to be mistaken for actual silver. The color can be described as stainless steel with a gold undertone. This metal is fairly corrosion resistant and does not easily tarnish although it will darken with age. Our nickel silver is 80 to 90 ksi in tensile strength, which is similar to brass or galvanized steel in strength.
RoundMaille
Roundmaille forms a cylinder of maille. It is normally made from the european 4-in-1 weave. Similar to box chain, it has additional rows of maille which allow it to form its cylindrical shape instead of a box. This weave is useful for bracelets, necklaces and such things as the fob of a key chain.
GSG weave
GSG weave is an offshoot of half-persian 3-in-1. In essence it is similar to two strands of it connected together. It is the base for another weave called half-persian 6-in-1 sheet (also half-persian 5-in-1 sheet). This weave is useful for chokers and bracelets as well as potential use as straps for purses, halters or bikini tops.
Shaggy Loops
Shaggy loops is a simple chain style that lives up to its name. It is a simple linked chain with additional links that only connect into the chain at one point. These additional links give it the 'shaggy' look. This weave is useful for earrings, bracelets, necklaces and some additional 'fringe style' ornamentation on other pieces.
Dragonscale
Dragonscale is an intricate, time-consuming weave that consists of interlocking layers of multiple size links. This is a very popular weave and has many uses from jewelry to armor to exotic wear.
Japanese 6-in-1
Japanese 6-in-1 is similar to Japanese 4-in-1. The major difference between the two is that Japanese 4-in-1 forms squares when it is created. Japanese 6-in-1 creates hexagons. Much like Japanese 4-in-1, Japanese    6-in-1 is frequently made with two different sized links.
Celtic Star
The Celtic Star is a mixture of Helm's Chain and Celtic Visions Weave. The Celtic Star is frequently used as a pendant or other decorative portion of a piece.
Tetra Orb
The tetra orb is a 3-dimensional stand alone unit that can be made with chainmail. It can be used either by itself as an ornament or focal point of a piece or it can also be used connected to other tetra orbs to form larger structures.
Japanese 8-in-2
Japanese 8-in-2 is commonly used as a structure for chainmail sculpture. When made with links with a smaller AR (aspect ratio), the structures can be quite firm and sturdy. Other uses for Japanese 8-in-2 include jewelry or use as a sheet weave for things like chess/checker boards and clothing.
By all means this is not a comprehensive list of weaves or materials. Other weaves and materials are available on request. If our link supplier supplies that material we'll be happy to work in it. If the weave is documented someplace (and not copyrighted) we'll be happy to learn it to make the piece you want.
Return to Top of Page